Wandering Wonder Ibn Batuta
by Dr. Jyotsna Kamat
First Online: April 01,2004
Page Last Updated: December 21,2007
Ibn Batuta was born in Tangier in Morocco in 1305 A.D. He traveled in
about forty-four countries of two continents risking life and limb many times.
He was a
devout Muslim and not only a pilgrim, but a jurist, mystic, politician, a
courtier at times, a diplomat and an explorer. In twenty nine years of endless traveling, he
covered about 75,000 miles almost three times the distance Marco Polo, the great
adventurer before him, covered. He returned to his native land after twenty nine
years of
land and sea travel and at his Sultan's command wrote the Rehla or a travel book
covering several adventures in African deserts, Indian countries (states) and
islands in far east and China. He spent seven years at the court of Mohammed Bin
Tughluk as a judge and finally as ambassador to China! He has left a wonderful
record of socio-religious life of the places he visited which
includes coastal Karnataka.

Ibn Batuta (1305-1369 A.D.)
Wandering Wonder of Middle Ages
The town of Honavar or Hinawr as Ibn Batuta calls it, was a big port and capital city in
his time. he was guest of Jamaluddur-- the governor or ruler of the province, and was
a kudatory of Bijayanagar king "Haryah" (Hariappa or Harihara I.) Ibn Batuta
noticed there are thirteen schools for girls, and twenty-three schools for boys, the like
of which he had not seen elsewhere. He further states that the women knew the
great Quran by heart. Perhaps, the schools he mentions were Maqtabs (elementary
schools )attached to Masjids where children were taught to read, write, and
recite Quran. Besides he mentions that the girls were fair and beautiful and
wore rings in their nose. Obviously they did not wear burqa or veil since he
noticed nose ornaments worn by women.
By the standard of middle ages, coastal Karnataka was ahead in Muslim
education, a rare happening even now, compared with existence of thirteen schools in
the fourteenth century, however small they were.
Ibn Batuta has further left interesting account of a dinner he had with sultan
Iamaluddin. "Four small chairs were placed on the ground and ... each one
of us sat likewise on a chair. A copper table is brought, which is known as
Khawanja, on which is placed a dish of the same metal known as talam (thali.)
Then appears a beautiful girl, wrapped in silk sari who placed the pots with
food before the individual. She holds a large copper vessel from which she picks
up a ladleful of rice, and serves it on the dish, pours ghee over it, and adds
pickles of pepper, of green ginger, of lemon, and of mangos. The man eats a
little rice with pickles. When the food placed before him is consumed, she takes
a second ladleful (of rice) and serves cooked foul on a plate and the rice is
eaten there with also. When the second course is over, she takes another ladleful
and serves another variety of chicken which is also eaten with rice.
When chicken is consumed, fish of different kind is served, with which also
one eats rice. When fish courses are over, vegetables cooked in ghee and milk (payasam
perhaps?) are served. When all dishes are eaten, "Kushan that is curded milk is served
which finishes the meal. At the close one drinks hot water, for cold water would
harm the people in the rainy season."
Thus, it is clear that there was hardly any difference between the meals of
non-Brahmin Hindus and Muslims. The latter, even of the ruling class became
fully localized as far as food habits, female education and dress were
concerned. The sultan wore silk clothes and wore shawls. When he rode, a cloak
he did had. But over it again he wore a shawl--a typical Indian fashion.
Ibn Batuta had traveled through all the countries of Asia and Africa where
Islam flourished. His stay in India, Maldives an Ceylon for fourteen years provides
valuable account of socio-cultural scene of those times.
